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In Virginia, with a cold

Lactating, Holiday Inn, Virginia Tech shootings, lesbian poetry, giant pizza slices, banjos, faux copper & The Best Breakfast in the Known

Holiday Inn

The Meteor Shower (Fim do Mundo)

Fim do Mundo, meteorites, Prince Henry the Navigator, Portugal, Santa Cruz ghetto, suicide, The Last Chance & Cretan mazes. I arrived in Fim do Mundo …

Icarus

The Nostalgic Traveler: The Greenhouse

Winston-Salem, Lemmaphyllum microphyllum, North Carolina, Paris, American art & tobacco baron R.J. Reynolds Last June, I started this column by …

Caribbean Travel

Trekking through the Earthquake

Nepal, earthquake, avalanches, exploding trees, dhaka topi, Kathmandu, Slovenian doctors, aftershocks & Manaslu Base CampThe first thing I noticed …

Earthquakes

Journeys: The Green Siren of Myrtle Beach

“A churning mass of record-breaking, life-threatening arctic air is pushing across the country, so broad that every state except Hawaii is expected …

David Foster Wallace

Growing Old with the Inuit

Senicide, seal hunts, Inuit grandmothers, World’s Smallest Clothes competition, snow geese, polar bears, Arctic crime & Mr. Black The flight to Cape …

Indigenous Peoples

The Nostalgic Traveler: The Greenhouse

Last June, I started this column by writing about my collection of vintage Paris travel guides. I wanted to think about travel without going anywhere …

Greenhouses

Somewhere in Istanbul

A bustling city that stretches across the tips of Europe and Asia, there is no doubt that Istanbul is truly one of a kind. It is a city where one can …

Istanbul

El Metro

Mexico City, alpha males, crushed skulls, National Palace, Chilpancingo metro station, Gordian knots, Luisa Fernanda & lovers. 1.Three boys strut …

Botswana

The Great Nothing, Bushmen, dreams, fathers, Makgadikgadi, Kalahari Desert, Gustave Flaubert & Mount KilimanjaroThe Makgadikgadi, a vast and flat …

From the Magazine: Dead Tourist Bar

A bartender reads her customers, looking for hints whether this will be their last night alive. Dead Tourist BarBy Elizabeth Kellar(Fiction)This is …

Bermuda Triangle

Longform: When Roads Rise to Meet You

I HAD BEEN A FULLY LICENSED DRIVER IN THE UNITED STATES FOR SIXTEEN YEARS when I took the Irish driving test and failed.Irish people will tell you, …

Roads

Longform: When Roads Rise to Meet You

I HAD BEEN A FULLY LICENSED DRIVER IN THE UNITED STATES FOR SIXTEEN YEARS when I took the Irish driving test and failed.Irish people will tell you, …

Driving

Found: Shell Vernacular

Before they were sold, the men and women in shackles had to turn their backs to prove they bore no marks — no one wanted a defiant slave. The …

Vernacular

You Are Here: Edinburgh

At the castle no one was royal. They dragged along their common provenances, hometowns banging around on the cobblestones behind them like oxygen …

British History

Longform: Sailing Alone Around the World

Batten down the hatches for this serious throwback, from 120 years ago: Captain Joshua Slocum’s adventure of becoming the first man to circumnavigate …

Journeys: Rishikesh, The Beatles’ Ashram

In India, I went everywhere by train. The train ride itself formed my image of my destination, whether I’d ridden first-class and had been served …

John Lennon

You Are Here: They Run On Empty

“If you had told me in advanced where you were going, I would have bought gas in Mzuzu and it would have been cheaper,” Febias, our taxi driver, told …

Malawi

Longform: Circulo de Abuelos

I’m on the ropes and she knows it. Crow’s feet deepen as her eyes flit from domino chain to trough and back again, but Raquel doesn’t seem worried. …

Somali Pirates

You Are Here: Marrakech

In 1998 on the night before Marrakech, I had a dream that I awoke in a splendorous Arab city with orange walls and castles, with a mesa and cliffs at …

Marrakech

Longform: Krisis

The signs were everywhere. A wire mesh world sat in the Thessaloniki harbor, a public sculpture left to decay, the carcass seemingly picked clean by …

Greece

From the Magazine: Found

A greasy ball of fluff from seal pups. FoundBy Lucy SienkowskaI recently visited the Norfolk coast and was taken by a friend to an isolated stretch …

Ayahuasca

You Are Here: Sake Festival

One mid-February day each year, in the harsh cold of mid-winter, four sake breweries in the tiny town of Oyama open up their doors and invite people …

Breweries

Longform: No Time for Stillness

I left the town of Moscow, Idaho, under the cover of darkness and arrived in the city of Springfield, Missouri, with the sun shedding light on my …

Springfield

From the Magazine: Comforter

Though winter is sliding away from us, here’s one last blast of cold from the Land of the Midnight Sun. ComforterBy Jenni QuilterIt is a word which I …

Norway

The Nostalgic Traveler: The Red Caboose

A scenic drive goes nowhere. This is part of its appeal. It cuts through space, and it crosses vast expanses, but it doesn’t connect towns or serve …

U.S. Travel

Longform: Narrow Rails

On my way to Sonjoji temple, I sit on the Tokyo subway with dour-faced salarymen.To reach the forest temples of Nikku, I hurtle 200 miles an hour …

Japan