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A Little Tour of Provence

“Between ourselves and things strange affinities exist.”—Alphonse DaudetSunday, September 25, 1988PARIS“…picturesque massing…gateways to the …

The Beloved Country

“Cry, the beloved country, for the unborn child that’s the inheritor of our fear. Let him not love the earth too deeply. Let him not laugh too gladly

South Africa

Notes from Cambodia

Motorbikes, water buffalo, landmine legacies, genocide memorials, migration, noodle carts, authenticity & pigs rolled in blankets.1.Beware the word …

Insomnia in Osh

spent two days after the Ferguson, Missouri, grand jury decision glued to Twitter, watching images of blocked highways and angry Americans of all …

Kyrgyzstan

Iceland’s Ring Road

Mushrooms, glacial lagoons, moss-covered lava, rainbows, rowdy volcanos, Dr. Seuss, Northern Lights, icebergs & wild horses.Highly addicted to road …

Notes from the Island

Lagos Island, abducted girls, Nigeria, groundnuts, hip-hop, colonial visions, Lekki-Ikoyi Link Bridge and Banky W.For Tolu Talabi176The number of …

Luxury Lifestyle

Czechoslovakia 1978

Czechoslovak Socialist Republic, digital wristwatches, Polski Fiat, customs officers, Radio Free Europe, yellow soda, Moravia, Babička & Czech …

Long Island

The Van Dies

Big Bend, scrappers, Balmorhea Blue, West Texas Hotline, sulfur dioxide, Pecos, La Norteña Famous Tamales, drilling, mysterious door slots &

West Texas

Run Free

Caballo Blanco, Stone Age superathletes, Sterling Noren, ultramarathons, Christopher McDougall, Tarahumara Indians, Copper Canyons & the Sierra …

Running

Pura Vida

Everyone around here calls it the pink beach. Aura says it’s because of all the crushed shells and how the sand is cut through with specks of quartz. …

Costa Rica

Marfa, Texas

“If you are interested in a thing it is interesting, and if you are not it is not.”—Donald Judd [The Chinati Foundation]Marfa is a small Texas town …

Art

In Virginia, with a cold

Lactating, Holiday Inn, Virginia Tech shootings, lesbian poetry, giant pizza slices, banjos, faux copper & The Best Breakfast in the Known

Panera Bread

The Meteor Shower (Fim do Mundo)

Fim do Mundo, meteorites, Prince Henry the Navigator, Portugal, Santa Cruz ghetto, suicide, The Last Chance & Cretan mazes. I arrived in Fim do Mundo …

Icarus

The Nostalgic Traveler: The Greenhouse

Winston-Salem, Lemmaphyllum microphyllum, North Carolina, Paris, American art & tobacco baron R.J. Reynolds Last June, I started this column by …

Greenhouses

Trekking through the Earthquake

Nepal, earthquake, avalanches, exploding trees, dhaka topi, Kathmandu, Slovenian doctors, aftershocks & Manaslu Base CampThe first thing I noticed …

Earthquakes

Journeys: The Green Siren of Myrtle Beach

“A churning mass of record-breaking, life-threatening arctic air is pushing across the country, so broad that every state except Hawaii is expected …

David Foster Wallace

Growing Old with the Inuit

Senicide, seal hunts, Inuit grandmothers, World’s Smallest Clothes Competition, snow geese, polar bears, Arctic crime & Mr. Black The flight to Cape …

Indigenous Peoples

Somewhere in Istanbul

A bustling city that stretches across the tips of Europe and Asia, there is no doubt that Istanbul is truly one of a kind. It is a city where one can …

Istanbul

El Metro

Mexico City, alpha males, crushed skulls, National Palace, Chilpancingo metro station, Gordian knots, Luisa Fernanda & lovers. 1.Three boys strut …

Botswana

The Great Nothing, Bushmen, dreams, fathers, Makgadikgadi, Kalahari Desert, Gustave Flaubert & Mount KilimanjaroThe Makgadikgadi, a vast and flat …

Dead Tourist Bar

Whiskey, suicide, cheeseburgers, cliffs, The New York Times & the Bermuda TriangleFictionThis is the tricky part.A guy enters a bar, orders a drink. I …

Bermuda Triangle

Longform: When Roads Rise to Meet You

I HAD BEEN A FULLY LICENSED DRIVER IN THE UNITED STATES FOR SIXTEEN YEARS when I took the Irish driving test and failed.Irish people will tell you, …

Transportation

Longform: When Roads Rise to Meet You

I HAD BEEN A FULLY LICENSED DRIVER IN THE UNITED STATES FOR SIXTEEN YEARS when I took the Irish driving test and failed.Irish people will tell you, …

Transportation

Found: Shell Vernacular

Before they were sold, the men and women in shackles had to turn their backs to prove they bore no marks — no one wanted a defiant slave. The …

Charleston

You Are Here: Edinburgh

At the castle no one was royal. They dragged along their common provenances, hometowns banging around on the cobblestones behind them like oxygen …

Castles

Longform: Sailing Alone Around the World

Batten down the hatches for this serious throwback, from 120 years ago: Captain Joshua Slocum’s adventure of becoming the first man to circumnavigate …

Journeys: Rishikesh, The Beatles’ Ashram

In India, I went everywhere by train. The train ride itself formed my image of my destination, whether I’d ridden first-class and had been served …

John Lennon

You Are Here: They Run On Empty

“If you had told me in advanced where you were going, I would have bought gas in Mzuzu and it would have been cheaper,” Febias, our taxi driver, told …

Malawi