Russian alpinist Valery Babanov of is hoping to become the oldest person to summit Mount Everest without bottled oxygen at the age of 59. He hopes to climb it this spring, but we haven’t heard what route he’ll be taking.

Babanov pushed the limits on some of the world’s highest peaks, and over 20 years ago received two Piolet d’Or awards. In 2001, he made the first ascent, solo, of Meru Central (6,310 m) in India. He climbed the 2,000-metre route over five days in September and encountered difficulties of up to M5 5.10 A2. Two years later, Babanov and Yura Koshelenko successfully summited Nuptse East after making the first ascent of the south face via the 2,500-metre Moonlight Sonata, which is grade ED: 6b M5 A3.

Babanov has dozens of history-making first ascents and speed ascents and works as an international mountain guide. He’s climbed six of the 14 8,000-metre peaks, including by new routes up Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak.

In 2023, he climbed Makalu, the world’s fifth highest mountain, to prepare for Everest. He’s currently making his way through the Khumbu Valley, follow him on Instagram below. “I have been preparing for this all my life,” he said.

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