Liquid gold: why the best olive oil is made by wine producers

There are two smells that take me back through a wormhole in time to Florence, 1992: the whiff of Vespa diesel on a hot street and the pungent (and rarely found) scent of good, fresh olive oil. The last time it happened I was in a neon-lit, air-conditioned conference hall in Blenheim, New Zealand, …