NYT Critics’ Picks: Restaurants on Flipboard
By The New York Times | The New York Times created a magazine on Flipboard. “NYT Critics’ Picks: Restaurants on Flipboard” is available with thousands of other magazines and all the news you care about. Download Flipboard for free and search for “The New York Times”.
Hanging from Via Carota’s ceiling, menacing a large farmhouse table that had been surrounded by smiling customers just a few minutes earlier, was a row of long iron spikes, bent into hooks at their ends. They’d been retrofitted with light bulbs to make a functional if terrifying chandelier, but …Restaurant
The meatball is burly but yields in an instant, spilling its secret: a whole green olive, buried at the center. The olive is a small, powerful thing, radiating salt and vinegar, almost pickling the meat from the inside, transfiguring it.
This is but one surprise at La Morada, a Mexican restaurant in …Oaxaca
I came up with my nature-preserve theory of tasting menus while eating a cabbage sandwich at Semilla, a new restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, across the street from Jack’s Cancellation Shoes and Rachel’s Corset Discount Center (“specializing in hard to fit sizes”).
Semilla had taken two cabbage …Food
“You like spicy?” Jimmy Lau asked from behind the counter at Shuko, the new restaurant just below Union Square where he and his partner, Nick Kim, prepare an elevated and memorable species of Japanese food. Before I could answer, he handed me a spicy tuna roll that would casually knock over my …Restaurant
The cachapa is enormous even flopped in on itself, a thick pancake of ground sweet corn with whole kernels peeking through. Inside is mozzarella, caught mid-ooze, and two bands of double-smoked bacon, each as broad as a strop, juicy with brine and curling black at the edges. No distinction is …Food
Only half of the tables inside Kao Soy were taken, but the delivery guys were coming and going through the door on Van Brunt Street every few minutes. The December wind off the harbor that was shaking the little brick buildings in Red Hook, Brooklyn, was keeping everybody at home, ordering pad see …Brooklyn
“You don’t eat, we fight,” said the woman who had brought out the heaping platter, hands on hips. Then she leaned forward and gently folded up the ends of my sweater sleeves, which were drooping dangerously close to the food. “So they don’t get dirty,” she said, before disappearing into the kitchen.
A woman I once worked with had a facility for languages that was matched by her self-assurance. The rest of us had a hard time keeping track of her various proficiencies, and one time we asked her to remind us whether she knew Chinese.
“Oh, I would love to learn Chinese,” she said. “But I just don’t …Restaurant
If you hooked a seismograph to Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, the readout for most of the last two decades would be boringly predictable. Regular spikes would indicate the orderly arrival of restaurants, with just a few aberrant tremors here and there: the closure of Tabla and, very …Restaurant
Fish are stacked on the glass over the steam table, fried whole without interfering batter, all crackly veneer and quick-tearing flesh. There are galunggong, like swollen cigars with the flavor of a shyer mackerel; pompano in puckering silver; and, best of all, bangus (pronounced ban-GOOSE), or …
There is no grill on a sawed-off oil drum, no lick of breeze or view of the sea in sun-shocked blue. But behind the frosted windows of LoLo’s Seafood Shack, which opened in Harlem in October, the extemporaneous spirit of the lolo — the kind of open-air barbecue joint found on the beaches and …West Indies
It’s only at the end that the blood is tipped in, just before the bowl of num tok — an opaque, nearly black Thai noodle soup — is brought to the table. This is time enough for the blood to disperse in the broth and lose its drawn-sword tang. What I tasted was more elliptical: salt, minerals, a …Ice Cream
“Go to Upland” is my current answer to anybody who asks for a good new place to eat in Manhattan. It will probably remain my answer for some time. The recommendation is the same for fetishists who unwind by reconstructing recipes from the court of Catherine de Medici as for parishioners in the …Food
Restaurants hide in all kinds of ways. There is the coy, unmarked-door hiding of the neo-speakeasy. There is the romantic hiding of restaurants whose positioning at, say, the end of an alley allows men to seem clever and their dates to seem impressed. There is the snooty hiding of exclusive …Restaurant
Half the diners at Sky Cafe sip jasmine tea from juice boxes. A sign says “Dilarang Merokok,” with a cigarette crossed out. Stacked in back are plastic bins of snowball cookies melded from cashews, Edam and icing sugar; jackfruit cooked down into gummi-bear-like cakes; and deep-fried crackers …North Sumatra
A new restaurant from the chefs Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone and their partner Jeff Zalaznick tiptoed onto the Lower East Side in September, demurely announcing its name with two eight-foot-high neon signs in peep-show pink. DIRTY, says one. FRENCH, reads the other.
Diners who have reservations …Restaurant
Music rains down from a gramophone horn hung from a ceiling that curves like a ship’s hull. Spiky ferns half-spill out of hanging baskets; peacock-blue flowered tile runs underfoot. The front wall is all window, 12 feet tall with a grid of steel, looking out on almost unrelieved darkness.
A kind of …Brooklyn
Some restaurants hit the ground at full tilt. This review concerns one of the others, a place that stumbled at the start, as ungainly as a day-old giraffe, and only recently found its footing.
Bar Bolonat opened in the West Village in March in what seemed an auspicious location, a corner spot …Restaurant
The plastic cups arrived on a terra-cotta plate, one cup filled with a pickled pig’s knuckle, another with a hank of goat sloughed off the bone and unraveling. There were sips of soup, too, shining with fat, and a dark sauce that tasted like smoke incarnate.
“Samples,” explained Denisse Lina Chavez, …
When I am on my way to a big dinner at a restaurant in Flushing, Queens, I like to limber up by eating a dozen of Helen You’s dumplings.
For the last eight years, Ms. You has been the chef and proprietor of the Tianjin Dumpling House, which is not so much a house as a narrow shaft of elbow room …
It was high noon at Hard Times Sundaes, a food truck parked behind a Walgreen’s in Mill Basin, Brooklyn, and the gas wasn’t on. “Can you give me a minute?” asked Andrew Zurica, the owner, cook and lone employee. Carrying a propane tank in one hand, he sprinted to Home Depot.
Behind the truck, the …
Look inside the head of a bright young chef and you’ll see a beehive of swarming ideas, a few of them just hatched and others that buzzed in from somewhere else. It can take time to sort out which are borrowed and which have the sting of the new.
Thomas Chen, fresh from the trenches at Eleven …
Halfway through dinner at Blue Hill, my server presented me with two squashes. One was the common football-size butternut that weighs down shopping bags at this time of year. The other had the same shape but was about as big as a sparrow. I held it in my palm. It felt good in there. Without …
If you remember David Waltuck’s cooking at Chanterelle, eating at his new restaurant, Élan, can be a little unnerving. Chanterelle, a downtown pioneer when it opened in 1979, was an institution by the time it went out of business, just a few months short of its 30th anniversary.
Like all …
It must be a Friday or a Saturday, from April to October, after 10 p.m. — the later the better — and still you may not find her, Maria Piedad Cano, the once and future Arepa Lady of Jackson Heights, Queens.
For more than two decades, she has parked her cart among the late-night roisterers of …
“They say we’re looking at two hours. They’ll call us.”
This was the grim report from inside the latest East Village restaurant to have turned its no-reservations policy into a viral marketing campaign. A small, hungry mob was gathering on the sidewalk. Hoping to find a pleasant place to drink and …
The specialty at Com Tam Ninh Kieu is broken rice, the lowliest rice, grains splintered in the milling process, shunted aside and sold cheap. In Vietnam, it was poor man’s food until the rich realized what they were missing. Turns out the fragments are clingier and earthier than their grander, …
We were halfway through appetizers at Cherche Midi, passing the steak tartare and spreading anchovy toasts with softly jiggly Parmesan custard, when one of my guests suddenly tilted his head and listened. He looked like the boy in a tornado movie who notices that the birds have stopped …
“That is not a safe choice,” the waiter said. I had asked about the veal entrails, as mythopoeic a description of offal as I had ever seen on a menu, smacking of ritual sacrifice.
As prepared at Old Tbilisi Garden, in Greenwich Village, the dish (called kuchmachi) proved to be heart, liver and …