LUCY PHAM

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The High Cost of High Fashion

Myths and Realities<p>Fast fashion is only one market within a massive apparel industry. While it’s undeniably a commercial powerhouse, its cultural …

Socialism

The Melting Pot of Couture

PARIS — On Sunday, the immigrants arrived.<p>Refugees from the ready-to-wear season, they had left their former show homes in search of inspiration and aesthetic meaning (and commercial growth), hoping to find it in the hallowed frame of the first day of the Paris haute couture shows. From New York …

Fashion

The documentary exposing the dark reality of fast fashion

We meet Machines director Rahul Jain, whose striking new film snagged the Sundance World Cinema Documentary award for Cinematography – watch a clip here Machines still Courtesy of Jann Pictures The fast fashion industry has come under much scrutiny in recent years, with documentaries and …

Documentaries

How Topshop went from the hottest new label to hit Australian shores to a fast fashion failure

ONCE the epitome of cool, Topshop is the latest fashion brand to fall victim to Australia's tough retail market.The high-street chain, along with …

H&M

Fast fashion’s sad cycle of compulsive shopping, guilt, and regret has spread to Asia

A lot of the shopping for clothes that takes place today in wealthy countries, such as the US, isn’t about the clothing. Rather, it’s the act of purchasing—the temporary buzz of acquiring, and the symbolic value we project onto the item—that is often the point. Then the buzz fades, and a new …

On his fifth day in power, South Korea’s new president shut down 10 big coal-power plants

The South Korean capital, Seoul, is among the world’s most polluted cities, so it’s no surprise that air pollution was one of the key campaign issues for the newly elected president, Moon Jae-in.<p>That’s why, on his fifth day in power, Moon has announced that the country will temporarily shutter 10 …

Energy

7 Ways to Pull Off the Ballet Trend IRL

Valentino, Acne Studios, Celine, and more, each so valiantly declared during F/W 16 fashion week that the most elegant way to dress this fall is …

Fashion

Fighting the $450 Billion Trade in Fake Fashion

BoF lifts the lid on the shadowy market in fake fashion and what the UK’s special anti-counterfeiting police unit — the only one of its kind in the world — is doing about it.<p><b>LONDON, United Kingdom</b> — In the corner of Detective Sergeant Kevin Ives’ central London office are cardboard boxes full of …

What Really Happened at the Balenciaga Casting?

James Scully made good on his promise at VOICES to name those who engage in the 'cruel and sadistic' abuse of fashion models, citing an incident at last Sunday's Balenciaga casting. Now one of the accused is firing back.<p><b>PARIS, France —</b> At the end of a powerful talk at BoF’s VOICES gathering in …

Is Hermès Drifting?

Hermès appears to be moving away from the core strategy that made it special — and wildly successful.<p><b>LONDON, United Kingdom</b> — There is no doubt that Hermès sells exquisitely made products, but so do many other luxury brands. What is most unique about Hermès is the company’s decision to frustrate …

Fashion’s Political Gap

Without first ladies Michelle Obama and Samantha Cameron, the fashion industries in the US and UK are missing strong political advocates.<p><b>LONDON, United Kingdom —</b> Many in fashion are mourning the departure of Michelle Obama and Samantha Cameron. The two women, wives of American and British heads of …

Behind Gucci’s All-Black Campaign Teaser

Recently released ‘audition videos’ for Gucci’s next ad campaign reveal a cast of nine black models, a significant shift for a brand that once got ‘two thumbs down for diversity.’<p><b>LONDON, United Kingdom</b> — “It’s time you really investigate what these people are doing on behalf of your company… Gucci …

Estée Lauder vs. L’Oréal: Who’s Winning Beauty’s Arms Race?

The world’s leading beauty conglomerates are buying buzzy indie brands left and right to stay competitive in a fast-changing market. But who is making better bets?<p><b>NEW YORK, United States</b> — Why have there have been so many beauty acquisitions in the last three years? The answer begins on YouTube, …

Fashion Industry Remains Silent at Trump’s Immigration Ban

While the giants of Silicon Valley took public stances against President Trump’s immigration order, the silence from fashion's largest companies has been deafening.<p><b>NEW YORK, United States</b> — One by one, they didn’t come. While executives from other prominent industries across the United States …

Trends

Free Returns Are Killing Everything – Here’s Why

According to RetailDive every year 2 million tons of retail returns are loaded into landfills.<p>I have written about this before, in fact not so long …

J. Crew Struggles to Become Relevant Again

What happened to J. Crew? Six years ago, they were the darling of every menswear blog, but now hardly anyone ever talks about them. The company’s …

Fast Fashion is Absolutely Destroying the Planet

And buying a Prius won't make up for it.<p>You can buy a hybrid car. You can use cloth bags at the grocery store. Hell, you can even put solar panels on your roof. But if you're buying fast fashion, you're still destroying the planet.<p>In fact, it doesn't even necessarily have to be fast fashion. If …

Real Cool People, Real Cool Apartments: Azede Jean-Pierre

<i>As with clothes, the way you decorate a room expresses your personality. In its most ideal form, it signals to guests how you interpret yourself. In</i> …

MySpace

For Young Brands, Is the Instagram Opportunity Shrinking?

Once a highly efficient way for young brands to market themselves, Instagram is more crowded, competitive and costly than ever before.<p><b>LONDON, United Kingdom —</b> When Andrew Jennings launched minimalist watch brand Larsson & Jennings in April 2012, Instagram was still young. Only 18 months after …

Epic fashion fail: How Lands’ End tried to be young and stylish — and fell flat on its face

What happens when a company doesn’t know its customers or its strengths? It loses money — and its identity<p>To America’s young urban fashionistas, Lands’ End, if they knew it at all, was as hip as dad jeans. So it came as some surprise when the specialty apparel retailer built its strategy around …

Fashion’s old guard are right to fear the blogger

When the editors of Vogue.com hit out at the new social media generation of style commentators, they only showed their own weaknesses<p>Live by the sword, die by the sword. That’s what Vogue.com’s senior editors should be thinking at the moment. Ruefully, if they can do that without exacerbating …

Fashion

Vogue editors accused of hypocrisy after declaring war on fashion bloggers

Editors told to get back to their Werther’s Originals after criticising ‘pathetic’ fashion bloggers ‘in borrowed clothes’<p>They have ruled the fashion world for generations, but the formidable gatekeepers of Vogue have been branded “jealous, catty and hypocritical” by young fashion bloggers and fans …

Fashion

Why Fashion Forums Still Matter

In the age of Instagram and Snapchat, forums may seem like antiquated artefacts of a bygone era, but fashion needs them more than ever, argues Susanna Lau.<p><b>PARIS, France —</b> There’s something about the anonymity (and notoriety) afforded by avatars, the moderators chiming in with reminders of posting …

Trends

The Model Makers

MILAN — The Gucci collection that opened Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday was one of the hallmark shows of the spring season. Yet one model, swathed in dusky pink silk and clutching a branded fan, had made her runway debut only 48 hours before.<p>Elibeidy Danis Martinez, a fresh-faced, doe-eyed …

Op-Ed | It's Time to End Beauty As Usual

The personal care and beauty industries are severely under-regulated in the US, resulting in weak consumer protections against harmful ingredients, argues Gregg Renfrew of Beautycounter.<p><b>SANTA MONICA, United States</b> — There is a clash happening in Washington, D.C., and it has nothing to do with the …

Most Online Shoppers Turn to Amazon First

Amazon (amzn) has just widened its lead in the e-commerce space, putting it in a strong position ahead of the holiday season.<p>BloomReach Inc., an …

Fast Fashion Fills Our Landfills

Fast-growing, fast-fashion retailer H&M, which has more than 4,000 stores in 62 countries, sold $24.5 billion worth of T-shirts, pants, jackets, and …

Recycling
Fashion