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The Eater Guide to Oaxaca

Bring on the barbacoa (and mole, and memelas, and tlayudas, and…)

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The Eater Guide to Oaxaca
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    The Eater Guide to Oaxaca

    The Eater Guide to Oaxaca

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    Eater

    There might be no more romanticized state in Mexico than Oaxaca. As home to 16 distinct Indigenous groups that both anchor and drive the culture, the state of Oaxaca is as varied, complex, and beautiful as the rich moles for which it is famed. The word itself seems to emit a perfume of chiles, wild …

    What Makes Oaxacan Food Oaxacan?

    What Makes Oaxacan Food Oaxacan?

    What is it about Oaxaca? How is it that in this sprawling southwestern Mexican state, something as simple as a memela — a thick, oval tortilla made from ground masa and crisped up on a comal — can taste so otherworldly? The same holds true for a basic bowl of black beans. Or a blistered empanada — …

    Mole Is Never Truly Done at This Oaxaca Restaurant

    Mole Is Never Truly Done at This Oaxaca Restaurant

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    Eater - Nicholas Gill

    “In the village, people used to say that breathing the smoke from the chiles was good for you,” says Elvia León Hernández, coughing a bit from the plume as she tosses a combination of dried, thick-skinned chilhuacle chiles and ancho chiles on her comal. She moves the chiles continuously with an …

    The Ongoing Fight Over Who Owns ‘Mezcal’

    The Ongoing Fight Over Who Owns ‘Mezcal’

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    Eater - Emma Janzen

    In the small Oaxacan village of Santa María Ixcatlán, Amando Alvarado Álvarez makes mezcal by channeling the secrets of seven generations of family members that came before him. Situated on a hilly natural reserve in the northern part of the Cañada region, just three and a half hours northwest of …

    8 Tamales to Unwrap on Your Trip to Oaxaca

    8 Tamales to Unwrap on Your Trip to Oaxaca

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    Eater - Bill Esparza

    My love for tamales, and connection to their innumerable forms, is very personal. As a Chicano growing up in the Central Valley of California, my holiday table always included my grandmother’s perfectly moist, spicy tamales, and they’ve remained a benchmark for me as a food writer covering Latin …

    Behold Oaxaca’s Most Unforgettable Seafood Restaurant

    Behold Oaxaca’s Most Unforgettable Seafood Restaurant

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    Eater - Bill Esparza

    Careful steps are required to navigate the slippery, sandy ramp that drops you into Bahía Maguey, a popular tourist beach in the municipality of Santa Maria Huatulco, 166 miles southeast of Oaxaca City. At first glance, the tight palapa-lined cove seems not unlike so many other great Pacific …

    The Perfect 24-Hour Food Itinerary for Oaxaca

    The Perfect 24-Hour Food Itinerary for Oaxaca

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    Eater - María Ítaka

    Oaxacan cuisine — like Oaxaca City itself — can’t be encompassed in a single day of eating, but it’s sure as hell worth a try. World-class delights exist on every corner, from sunrise to sunset, at the city’s many street-food carts, family-run fondas, coffee shops, mezcalerías, and fine-dining …

    A Street Food Guide to Oaxaca City

    A Street Food Guide to Oaxaca City

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    Eater - Sarah Menkedick

    During the five years I lived in Oaxaca, in the last building on a dead-end cobblestone street, I marked time by the paleta man. I would wake up early in the morning and work until I heard that tripartite, baritone call from the calle below: “Pa-le-tas Pop-ey-e! Pa-le-tas Pop-ey-e!” “Güera,” the …

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