Alpinist Magazine

366 Flips | 1 Magazine | 1,065 Followers | @AlpinistMag | Alpinist Magazine is an archival-quality, quarterly publication dedicated to world alpinism and adventure climbing. Alpinist captures the art of ascent in its most powerful manifestations, presenting an articulation of climbing and its lifestyle that matches the intensity of the pursuit itself. Alpinist.com

New 5.14a R/X Multipitch Trad Route in Japan

The Moai Face [Photo] Keita Kurakami<p>The Moai Face rises like a wave of smooth granite out of the pines and crags of Mt. Mizugaki, Japan. Poised at …

Skelton - Dare establish a new line on the East Face of Taulliraju

The foreshortened line of the East Face Rock Rib (5.10b M5 AI5), Taulliraju, as seen on the first ascensionists' approach. [Photo] Steve Skelton<p>Three …

Mountaineering

an Index

<i>This story first appeared in</i> Alpinist 55<i>—Autumn 2016.</i><p>Heidi Howkins Lockwood, the writer's mother, on the summit of Gasherbrum II (8034m), 1996.<p>I've …

Climbing

Sharing Laughter in the Andes: Pfaff and Garcia's Route of the Solstice

Juliana Garcia at BaseCamp, 4600 meters. [Photo] Anna Pfaff<p><i>Anna Pfaff brings medical care to a free clinic in Bolivia and with local guide Juliana</i> …

Gobright and Bennett Blaze up Three El Cap Routes in a Day

Brad Gobright high on Zodiac (5.7 C2/5.14A, 1,800') during his and Scott Bennett's El Cap triple (in a day). [Photo] Cheyne LempeIn the morning, …

Climbing

Four New Lines and a Pack Raft Adventure in Alaska's Neacola Mountains

Craig Muderlak ascends alpine ice during an attempt on The Citadel (8,305'). [Photo] David Fay <b>May 23, 1 a.m., Neacola Mountains, Alaska:</b> As I pulled …

Local Hero

Mark Westman in his Talkeetna home with his cat, Cessna. [Photo] Lisa Roderick<p><i>Four months ago, Mark Westman was diagnosed with an extremely rare form</i> …

Climbing

Brooks-Range Drift 15 Down Sleeping Bag: Lightweight, Water-Resistant

The author's bivy after a cozy night on the shore beneath Volcan Llaima (3125m), Chile. [Photo] Drew Thayer<p><b>MSRP $559.95 Regular, $579.95 Long</b><p>After an …

Backpacking

The Path

Jenny Abegg following the traverse on Pitch 3 of Acid Baby (IV 5.10+, 1,000'). [Photo] Whitney Clark<p><b>It's 3 a.m., July 2015.</b> We walk through the …

Japanese Team Climbs New Line on SW Face of Asperity Mountain in Waddington Range

Toshiyuki Yamada leading the crux pitch of Happy Trio (ED- 5.10a WI3, 950m), southwest face of Asperity Mountain (3716m). [Photo] Takeshi Tani <b>May 2</b>, …

Mountaineering

Glen Denny Remembers Valley Walls in the 1960s

Royal Robbins on the North America Wall. [Photo] Glen Denny<p>Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite <i>by Glen Denny. Published by</i> …

Colin Haley Solos the Infinite Spur, Gets Caught in Storm During Descent

Rob Smith near the end of the "Knife-Edge Ridge" during his and Colin Haley's May 27 ascent of the Infinite Spur (Grade 6 5.9 M5 AI4, Lowe-Kennedy, …

Poetry Feature: "Kalymnos"

Poet Helen Mort. [Photo] Helen Mort collection<p><b>Kalymnos</b><p>The rock took all my fingerprints from me.<br>Below the crag, I watched a man lie down<br>beneath a …

The Climbing Life: She Climbed Alone

<i>This story first appeared in</i> Alpinist <i>54—Summer 2016.</i><p>[Illustration] Leighan Falley<p>As a young climber in the 1990s, I developed a strange habit. Each …

The Climbing Life: The March of Folly

<i>This story first appeared in</i> Alpinist <i>54—Summer 2016.</i><p>June 1972: The author's friends "on the north couloir of Bloody Mountain: John Long and Richard …

The Climbing Life

[Photo] Thomas Senf<p>WIND POURS THROUGH THE GULLY as swiftly as a waterfall. Snow crystals fall down a cascade of ice, covering the oceanic hues with …

Tool Users: Fifi Hooks

[Photo] Mike Lorenz. Ashby Robertson Collection (verticalarchaeology.com)<p>In 1969 Eric Jones ventured up the Bonatti Pillar, a tawny-granite spire …

Climbing

Full Value: Mt. Wake

<i>May 25, 2016: Yielding to the Siren's call, climbing toward an unclimbed summit is one thing. Extricating yourself from its deathly embrace is quite</i> …

Chasing Mythical Beasts in Alaska

Day 2: Graham Zimmerman traversing away from the bivy and toward the route's crux. [Photo] Chris Wright <i>[The harpies] have broad wings, a human neck</i> …

Darwin's Disappointment

<i>This story first appeared in</i> Alpinist <i>54—Summer 2016.</i><p>Watercolor of the moored H.M.S. Beagle from the sketchbook of Conrad Martens, who joined the crew …

Mammut 8.7mm Serenity Dry: Light, Stiff and Specialized

Bill Bjornstad on Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4), RMNP, Colo. Note: the plum-colored Serenity rope in this image is from the author's collection. …

Solo Faces: The Camaraderie of Divine or Reckless Brotherhood

In the atmosphere of James Salter's <i>Solo Faces</i>. [Photo] Genevieve Hudson<p>Before I left for Chamonix to go hiking in the French Alps, I borrowed <i>Solo</i> …

Down to the Wire

<i>[Below are author Jack Tackle's reflections on "Down to the Wire" from Alpinist 1—Winter 2002-2003—Ed.]</i><p><i>May 20, 2016: This story is about recovering</i> …

Poetry Feature: "Belay"

Vedauwoo, "rough, brutal, gorgeous," as poet Kristen Gunther notes, is "a place of restoration and comfort." [Photo] Kristen Gunther<p>As an ecologist …

Climbing

This image is from Alpinist 54’s Table of Contents. Here Freddie Wilkinson (@freddiewilkinson) tees off on Mt. Foraker (Sultana, 17,400'), Alaska Range. [Photo] Mark Westman

[Cover] As the deadline approached for this issue’s cover, we reached out to Jeremy Collins to see if he might have an idea. He recounts: “I quickly doodled something imagined: Trango Towers meets Baffin Island meets Cirque of the Unclimbables. A dream valley. Then I set my tool against the art to show scale and its simple handcrafted approach. And thus the cover was born—fast and light, alpine style.” [Illustration] Jeremy Collins (@jercollins_com)

A History of Imaginary Mountains—Thoreau's Dream: Beyond the Maps

<i>The following story is the introduction to a profile of mythic, sacred and imaginary mountains in Alpinist 54—Summer 2016.</i><p><i>This issue is now on</i> …

Friends and Family Honor Dave Bridges (1970-1999)

Dave Bridges on K2 in 1994. [Photo] Steve Untch<p>On October 5, 1999, while Dave Bridges and Alex Lowe were investigating a potential ski descent on the …

Mountaineering

Going Home

The late Dean Potter (1972-2015), meditating atop the Rostrum, Yosemite, California. In November 2008, Potter soloed the Alien Roof (5.12) on this …

Climbing